Days 7 to 11 - AT Training Hikes - Lake District National Park - Wasdale

AT Training Hikes - Lake District National Park - Wasdale  

Days 7 - 11, Sunday 26th to Thursday 30th January 2014

Three great days on the high fells, each with different weather challenges, plus two rest days.

Our Gossamer Gear Mariposa backpacks we're trialling for the AT are proving very comfortable, we're very pleased with them.  We've no scales with us but have probably been carrying 20+ pounds with ease.  The ideal backpack weight we're aiming for on the AT is somewhere between 25 and 30 pounds depending on what food supplies we'll be carrying .  On top of our usual gear I've been carrying 5 litres of water each day and Nigel's been carrying a climbing rope and some tinned food cans to get used to carrying additional weight!

The cold, wet weather we've had has also been great practice for us to perfect our layering systems.

To summarise:  We walked 38.2 miles over 3 days (6 Wainwrights including Englands highest mountain).  Average 12.75 miles per day.  Average speed 2.1 mph.  Our total ascent, 3093m (10,147 ft). 

Details of each individual day are below:

 

Day 7: Zero Day

Today we planned a rest day, or 'zero' day as they call it in America (a zero walking day), which worked out well as the weather was wetter and windier than ever when we woke.  We had a lazy start and lovely cooked breakfast.  We felt sorry for all the weekend campers packing away their tents in the heavy wind and rain, that could be us in a few weeks time! 

We moved campsites today, once we got the van jump started - we had a flat battery!  We headed south via the coast over to Wasdale, South West Lakes, where we are booked into the National Trust campsite for 4 nights - new area, new walks.  We stopped off about 10 miles before the campsite in the small village of Gosforth to stock up on food supplies at the only village grocery store around, a messy little Aladdin's cave of a shop that had everything, you don't see shops like that around much anymore.

We arrived late afternoon then had a chilled evening watching dvd's.  We're in the middle of nowhere, there's been no TV signal or mobile signals at these campsites.

Day 8: Eskdale

A long hike today, we left the campsite, in the rain again, and headed up along the ridge above Wast Water to Illgill Head (609m) (often referred to as Wast Water screes) it was a long steep slog up the grassy slopes to the top. Not much to see again in the rain and mist but the rain did eventually stop for a while and the views clear a little.  We could see over to the coast and had a nice view down to Wast Water lake and Whin Rigg (535m) where we were heading to in the distance.

  

From Whin Rigg we descended down through Mitterdale Forest , the wood paths a nice change to bleak fells and on down to Eskdale Green where we thought there may be a cafe stop, but no such luck!

We crossed south of the River Esk and headed along an old bridleway alongside the river through Eskdale valley over a lovely wooden bridge by a ford continuing until we came to some stepping stones across the river.  Unfortunately for us because of the heavy rains they were impassable without getting very wet, which we weren't prepared to do.  The river level was gushing just above the stepping stones which would have been ok to cross still, but one stone was misplaced and the gap between the stones too large to jump. We turned and headed back, it was less than a mile detour to an alternative road bridge over the river. 

 We passed Dalegarth Station which was very 'closed'!  Everywhere seems to shut down in the Lakes in January.  We had the hills to ourselves again, we didn't see any other hikers out today again, just a couple of local dog walkers down by the river.

We passed through Boot, a quaint little village (the pub was actually open but we daren't go in because we still had about 4 miles to walk and were in danger of running out of daylight!)  with lovely traditional stone cottages.

From Boot we followed an old drovers path up over Eller How, Eskdale Moor and past Burnmoor Tarn in the fading light back to the campsite.  We managed to walk waterproof less for about half an hour before the heavens opened again!  We arrived just before the need for torches!

Stats: 16.6 miles in 7 hours with short breaks.  Average speed 2.37 mph.   Total ascent/descent 1086m. 

 Day 9- Scafell Pike - The highest mountain in England!

With the weather we've been having , there was never going to be a perfect day to climb Scafell Pike (978m), so we braved the rain again and headed to the summit of England's highest mountain up the tourist path.  A route Wainwright describes as 'dull' and 'a tiring and uninteresting grind'.  As we rarely get any views in the rain and mist and can only see about 3 steps in front of us with our heads down and blinkered waterproof gear on, we weren't that bothered!  A clear summers day is a bit different. 

We set off from the campsite up towards Lingmell Gill where we briefly got a clear view back over West Water and Illgill Head on the left where we were yesterday.  A gradual climb up a good path, across a stream and we were soon at the snow line, things started getting tougher from then on.

 

We continued up via Brown Tongue and over Hollow Stones rock field, the rocks were quite slippery with a thin covering of snow.  The rain turned to sleet and eventually snow and visibility got gradually worse.    The path would ordinarily be a reasonably easy and steady climb but the snow made it quite challenging, it was up to a foot deep in places requiring us to kick foot holes to progress. 

It seemed to take forever to reach the summit, we could only see about 20 feet in front of us so had no idea how much further it was.  The white snow just blended into the white snowy mist, it was quite windy so lots of snow blowing around.  Eventually we made it!  We could just about see ourselves at the top.  

We immediately turned and started descending in the same direction we came from - we wanted to get down before our footprints disappeared.  The snow was blowing around so much it had already covered some of our uphill tracks.  The weather was too miserable on top to take a selfie, so we took one on the way down. Initially it wasn't too bad going down kicking steps into the deeper snow, it got trickier and very slippery though once we hit the rockier path and rock field with wet slushy snow. 

Visibility soon improved and it wasn't too long before we were below the snow line and on solid ground again.  Once we got down to Lingmell Gill we decided we'd take the alternative route back via Wasdale Head Inn rather than heading straight back to the campervan.  We deserved a good pub meal after that climb today.  A real fire welcomed us followed by Steak and Ale Pie and Slow Cooked Belly Pork, yum yum. 

We were watched constantly whilst eating by Billy the pub dog (we felt quite at home just a different dog!) but unfortunately for Billy he had a little tag around his neck saying 'Please don't feed me - Otherwise I go home and fart a lot'.  Nigel sneaked him a bit of pork crackling!

From the pub it was about a mile back to the campsite along a level path that warned 'Path can flood - alternative route via road'.  We followed the path and of course after all the rain we've had came to a stream bed that would normally be quite dry but was now a shallow river.  We managed to wade across quickly without getting too wet and then dodge another flooded area by jumping a fence back into the campsite!

A thoroughly enjoyable but very challenging day.

Stats:  9.4 miles in 4 hours 45 mins.  Average speed 1.9mph.  Total ascent 911m

We were very pleased with our time - Wainwright says to allow 5 hours and that's not on a snowy day!

Day 10 -  Unplanned Day Off

Our campervan had a flat battery again this morning so instead of a planned day hiking we needed to sort the van out and get it back up and running again.  Nigel managed to jump start the van from our leisure battery and then we needed to take it for a drive to re charge the battery again.  We headed to Whitehaven up the coast, a northern seaside town.  It had a lovely harbour with a C2C statue marking the start of the Coast to Coast cycle route.

It turned out to be a decent day with nice views over towards Galloway.

A bit of a shame as we could have been hiking, but we enjoyed our additional rest day.  We called into a local cafe for brunch, all day breakfast, and then had a wander around the south harbour area which had many old landmarks, plaques and statues relating to the towns past mining era.  A visit to Morrisons to stock up on groceries and then we drove to St Bees where a couple of years ago we started the 'coast to coast' walk before heading back to our campsite.

Day 11 - Mosedale Horseshoe

A beautiful, clear, dry, sunny day at last!
Today we completed one of the Wasdale rounds, the Mosedale Horseshoe! We were heading for the snow capped hills in the distance.

A sedate track ascended to Black Sail Pass, turning left here brought both sunshine and hard packed snow.

A great opportunity to test our newly purchased YakTrax Pro's, which proved excellent on the easier angled slopes leading up to the summit of Pillar (892m).  Great views from the summit in all directions and looking back down to the Wasdale valley where we started.

From Pillar a steep descent over slippery rocks required care to Windy Gap.  From there the ridge continued on excellent hard neve (rock hard snow) to Scoat Fell (843m), the top covered in snow drifts.

With such good conditions and even windless sunshine, easy work was made of Red Pike (828m).

 Once off the snow an icey path descended the hillside to Dore Head. 

 We were looking for an easy descent to our campervan at Wasdale Head, instead we had the descent from hell!  A steep slippery descent down frozen scree back down to Wasdale valley.  It seemed to take forever to get down.  It did get easier and the scree looser towards the bottom.

  
 Stats: 12.2 miles in 6 hours 20 minutes.  Average 2mph.  Total ascent 1096m.
A fantastic winters day walk (until the scree!)

Days 1 - 6 - AT Training Hikes - Lake District National Park - Langdale

AT Training Hikes - Lake District National Park - Langdale    

Days 1 - 6, Monday 20th to Sunday 26th January 2014

The AT is renowned for being a physically challenging trail.  Rather than skirting around mountains, the Appalachian Trail ascends and descends every mountain top it passes through.  It is equivalent to climbing Mount Everest 16 times apparently.  So, with less than four weeks until we start our thru hike and to make life slightly easier for us initially, we thought that we had better get some hill training hikes in and build up our hill legs! 

Off north to the Lake District for a couple of weeks in our campervan we head then.

We stopped on route in The Howgills arriving Monday evening at Great Langdale National Trust Campsite for 6 nights.  A great spot where we can do numerous day hikes straight from the van.  

The weather has been 'wet' from the start, we've had everything mist, rain, sleet, hail, snow and ice.   Our wet weather gear has been worn every day since reaching Langdale.  Luckily the campsite has a great drying room and our campervan has been a great comfort to return to at the end of the day, luxuries we won't have on the AT - we'll just have to grin and bear it when we get there!  The aim of this trip though was to increase our hill fitness levels by doing continuous uphill day hikes, testing our backpacks with ever increasing pack loads.

To summarise:  Our first 6 days of walking we walked 75 miles over 2 Howgills and 9 Wainwrights. We averaged 12.5 miles per day, average speed 2.36 mph.  Our total ascent, 5216m (17,112ft). 

We're very pleased with these stats considering the wet, wintery weather and terrain we encountered.

Details of each individual day walked are below:

Day One:  The Howgills

On our drive up to The Lakes we stopped off at Sedbergh in the heart of The Howgill Fells for a hike up and over the fells via The Calf (645m)

and back down past Cawtley Spout (waterfall).  

A grey day, luckily the rain held off.... we've not been so lucky the rest of the week!

Stats: 12.9 miles in 4 hours 15 minutes (including brief stops - we don't tend to stop for long breaks whilst hiking, especially in cold weather, we prefer to keep moving so just take quick 5 -10 minute breaks for a quick snack/refuel or we'll snack whilst we're walking).   Average speed 3mph.  Total ascent/descent 804m.  We were only carrying lighter day packs today.

Day Two: Crinkle Crags

Today we headed for Crinkle Crags (860m), the snow capped crinkly peaks in the distance.

A steady climb up Oxendale Beck initially but then it became tougher and steeper at Hell Gill (aptly named) where Nigel decided we'd take a short cut scrambling up over the crags to the summit which we reached not long after we hit the snowline.

From Crinkle Crags we headed to the three rocky summits of Cold Pike (701m).   Another grey day weather wise with wintery conditions on the top.  We stayed dry until Cold Pike when the rain and wind picked up and we had to don the wet weather gear.  From here we headed down off the hill via Red Tarn eventually rejoining Oxendale Beck. 

Stats: 10.9 miles in 5 hours 30 minutes (including breaks). Average speed 2 mph. Total ascent/descent 1040m.  Slightly heavier packs today, we are going to gradually increase our pack weight each day to get used to the heavier loads.

Day 3: Grasmere

Today was forecast for rain and drizzle all day so we decided on a lower level walk to Grasmere and back.  We left the campsite passing some Herdwick sheep in the road, the sheep here are really cute and fluffy, they need to be to keep warm!  We initially hiked a short way along the Cumbria Way parallel to Great Langdale Beck where the rain had turned paths into streams.  

We then headed up Thrang Crag (300m) on an interesting path through old slate quarry sites below Silver Howe before reaching Grasmere village where we stopped for a lovely lunch in a very quiet cafe, we were the only ones in there!  It has been the same on the hills, we had them to ourselves - The joys of wet mid weeks in January in the Lakes.

After lunch, it was still raining, we stopped off to buy some delicious handmade Grasmere Gingerbread from a quaint old fashioned little shop before heading up over Loughrigg Fell (335m), not much to see from the top, but then the weather started to brighten slightly as we headed down  to Loughrigg Tarn.   

From here it was through the lovely little hamlet of Elterwater joining the Cumbria Way again through Chapel Stile (we resisted the Wainwrights pub) and back alongside Great Langdale Beck, retracing our steps from this morning for the last mile or so back to the campsite.  

Stats: 12.7 miles in 5 hours 30 minutes (plus 1 hour for lunch).  Average speed 2.5mph.  total ascent/descent 555m.

Day 4: Langdale Pikes

Today was forecast for heavy rain but with sunny spells so we decided to brave it and go high again today up to Harrison Stickle (736m), the highest of a group of peaks known collectively as The Langdale Pikes. We took the direct route to the summit from Stickle Ghyll car park via Pike How.  A steady but steep climb it wasn't too long before we hit the snow line causing the footing underneath to be a bit slippery.  The weather started off slightly misty but then with constant strong winds it switched dramatically throughout the rest of the day between hail, snow and very brief sunny spells. Great natural lighting throughout the day, especially when the sun popped out for a couple of minutes every now and again, gave us some fantastic, albeit brief, photo opportunities.

  

From Harrison Stickle we headed to two more peaks, Thunacar Knot (723m) and Sergeant Man (734m) before descending steeply (Nigel going off piste again) down a slippery snowy grassy slope to Stickle Tarn where we stopped for a very quick snack, it was too cold to stop for long.

  

From the tarn we headed down Stickle Ghyll on a slippery steep snow covered path before eventually hitting solid ground again back where we started. 

Stats: 11.7 miles in 4 hours 30 minutes. Average speed 2.5mph. Total ascent/descent 896m.

Day 5: Bowfell

Another big climb to day up to Bowfell (903m).  We started up the valley from the campsite onto The Band which was a long steady climb up to Three Tarns and then onto Bowfell.  The snow on the hill tops was the deepest so far today with large areas iced over. It was a very cold wet misty day, providing no views at all - the selfie of us on the summit shows just a grey mist background!

From Bowfell we headed to Esk Pike (885m) and then to Esk Hause. Navigation was not easy today, but Nigel was in his element, he loves his maps and compass!  Thank goodness for the cairns also, they were useful today to help find the invisible path down.

From Esk Hause crossing we headed down off the misty hill via Angle Tarn, then Rossett Ghyll finally joining a part of the Cumbria Way again to come out at Old Dungeon Ghyll inn.  The cold wet mist eventually turned to drizzle on the way down.  A quality winter mountain day, Nigel wanted a pint in the pub but we decided to get back to the campervan, get changed and dry, then drive to Ambleside before it got too late.  The trade off was Fish and Chips instead, plus a bit of necessary food shopping.

Stats: 13.5 miles in 6 hours.  Average speed 2.3mph.  Total ascent/descent 1081m.

Day 6: Lingmoor Fell and Tilberthwaite

We hadn't checked the weather forecast today as we would go out hiking whatever the weather.  When we woke up though the wind was really strong, too strong to go up high so we headed off on another low level walk.  It stayed dry for about half an hour and then rained and hailed on us for the rest of the day.  We got a couple of half hour respites in-between showers. 

From the campsite we headed south over Lingmoor Fell where we had lovely views back to Crinkle Crags and Bowfell (in the mist) where we'd been a few days earlier - a milder day today, the snow that we encountered on the high tops earlier in the week had just about disappeared. The gusts of wind on the fell were strong enough to knock us sideways.  We didn't have the hills to ourselves today, there were a few more people out and about braving the weather it being a Saturday.  At one point we came across some interesting rocks on the path and had to remove our packs to squeeze through the rock slabs.

We headed down off the fell out of the strong winds to Blea Tarn and onto Castle Howe where we passed some smug looking sheep in their dry penthouse barn looking down on us - soaking in the rain! lol  

It had been raining on us all morning and from here we had the option of taking a 1 hour short cut back to the campsite along a road or continuing for another 3 hours on our intended route.  We opted to carry on as intended for another 3 hours, hoping that the rain would stop or at lease cease a little eventually.  Not 5 minutes after continuing the weather decided to really test us and pelt us with hail and sleet!  We carried on regardless passing some off road motorcyclists squatting behind a stone wall sheltering from the hail.  The weather did improve slightly, we got a couple of dry half hours allowing us to dry off slightly before another rain or hail shower hit.

The next few miles were through old slate quarries areas to Tilberthwaite where there were some gorgeous National Trust owned farm houses.

The hail showers continued as we headed back through more old and current slate quarries, Hodge Close Quarry and Parrock Quarry to Little Langdale.

From Little Langdale it was back to Chapel Stile hamlet, were again we resisted the pub.  We couldn't stand the thought of getting warm and comfy then having to put all our wet waterproofs back on for the final hour hike back along the Cumbria Way to the campsite - we had great views of The Langdale Pikes on the way back.

Stats: 13.6 miles in 6 hours.  Average 2.2mph.  Total ascent/descent 851m